Fashion

Irina Vitjaz Fall 2017

Benefitting from her wild success following last season’s show, Irina Vitjaz presented a new collection that certainly did not disappoint. Nor did it hold back—Vitjaz’s latest effort put two feet forward with gown after fantasy gown in a candied assortment of colors and slick lamés. The dizzying collection, pumped up on estrogen, reveled in the current trend toward pleated metallics. Arguably, there were so many standouts that one may deem it a fool’s errand to determine a focal dress.

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Fashion

A Détacher Fall 2017

The latest pieces from designer Mona Kowalska had an Agatha-Christie-meets-The-Parent-Trap feel: somewhat mysterious, with a hint of Victorian England that’s both vintage and youthful at the same time. At the heart of the collection was a rotating mix of tartan pieces and statement suits. Shapes were conservative—but that did not prevent the overall thrust from achieving a bookish edginess that attracts Kowalska’s cult following time and time again.

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Fashion

Irina Vitjaz Spring 2017

For Irina Vitjaz’s first New York Fashion Week appearance, the designer debuted her “Pure Couture” line. The collection wove together gowns that were in turn fresh and mature, romantic and stately, wispy and structured—while coherence was maintained in a calm palette evoking Monet’s waterlilies. The ’40s hair, styled by Christo Fifth Avenue, and birdcage veils lent a film noir suspense to the show.

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Fashion

Verdad Spring 2017

The eponymous collection by Louis Verdad plays on that idea of truth, of authenticity, says a spokesperson for the collection. It is largely a celebration of denim, a material the designer believes can (and should) transcend casual wear and the quotidian 502 jeans. Visible in the highly structured, “editorial” pieces of the collection is Verdad’s background in architecture; many of the garments seem to play with height. The looks favored pleated skirts, epaulettes, detachable cummerbunds and stark blazers, but true virtuosity appeared in the trousers and shorts, which were both tidy and playful. The designer owned an inclination for the vintage in his line, which feels like a 2017 Casablanca in denim.

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