The One-Oh

The One-Oh: Skin Care

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The One-Oh: 01. Aeora silicone face brush 02. Etude House 0.2 sheet masks 03. Aveeno Positively Radiant skin brightening daily scrub 04. Cetaphil moisturizing lotion 05. Too Faced Hangover face primer 06. First Aid Beauty face cleanser 07. Skinfood Royal Honey Propolis Enrich Essence 08. Sephora pore cleansing pad 09. Bliss Mighty Marshmallow whipped mask 10. CeraVe AM facial moisturizing lotion

Hi Dinner Party readers—Kristina here from Uniformly Dressed. Trying something new today: a guest post for DP’s One-Oh column to talk about my tentative foray into the daunting megabusiness of modern skincare, which still makes its fortune in reminding you of the flaws you must necessarily cleanse, exfoliate, and moisturize away. Here’s some of the products that have thankfully been an aid, not detriment, in my descent into madness—ahem, self-care.

Unsurprisingly, most of my favorites are definitely not “Instagrammable” but have been quiet soldiers of skin protection and moisture, as in the CeraVe and Cetaphil lotions I blindly reach for on most days. I used to layer the CeraVe AM lotion under my makeup, but since there’s SPF in a lot of BB creams nowadays, I switched to lightweight moisturizing primers such as the TooFaced Hangover face primer, which adds a little more hydration for the day.

The Aveeno daily scrub is helpful for gentle exfoliating in the shower. This year, I added the silicone brush because I started trying clay masks, which are messy and fun but get everywhere, and the scrub pad to help cleanse the face at night after work. I also picked up a mini jar of the Bliss Marshmallow whipped mask as a treat ($3.99 for the travel jar), and while I haven’t particularly noticed any brightening or added radiance due to application, the pillowy texture of the mask is pleasant and fun enough to use occasionally.

As far as “high end” skincurr, I tend to favor the K-beauty side of the spectrum. I’ve come to love the honey/propolis ampoules in my routine; there are quite a few out there—I considered CosRx, Tosowoong, LeeJiham and Nature Republic’s ampoules in my search—but Skinfood was the first I’ve tried, and I’ve stuck with it. Honey’s antibacterial, anti-inflammatory properties are supposed to help restore acne-prone skin to a healthier state. I personally just like the way it feels and absorbs. It also seemed to help soothe sunburnt skin in the summer, or at least prevent lobster cheeks after a day of being outside and not reapplying SPF.

I also think Korean brands slay the sheet mask market; the essence/formula on the mask gives superior hydration compared to Western brands. Now every time I know someone is about to go on a trip to Southeast Asia, the number one souvenir I ask for is K-beauty sheet masks! Check out Etude House, Nature Republic, Tonymoly, Skinfood, and Innisfree for some great options.

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Millennial Hustle

Millennial Hustle: Icely Franco

I first met 26-year-old real estate manager and creative professional Icely Franco about four years ago, back when I was still deeply entrenched in the NYC fashion scene. We were both working shifts at a fancy (and possibly haunted) shop in Soho and bonded over our mutual love of books, brunch, and the many, many commonalities between her Dominican heritage and my own Filipino origins—Island nation? Check. Empanadas? Check. The lingering shadow of mid-20th century populist dictatorships? Check and check.

Since our time schlepping hundred-dollar garments from stockroom to shop floor, I’ve moved to the West Coast and worked for half a dozen other places. Icely, on the other hand, has planted her roots more firmly in her native New York—finishing her degree, raising a lovely young daughter, and expanding her reach in the fashion world. Read on for more about this determined millennial’s big-city hustle:

Could you describe your job(s)? I manage a real estate office Mondays through Fridays, and on weekends, I creative direct and style photo shoots!

Did you go to college, and if so, what is your degree in? Graduated with a communications in speech pathology degree from LaGuardia Community College.

What is your favorite part of your job? The flexibility and learning about great properties and places to invest in! I also love my creative “side job” because it allows me to create something that brings me great satisfaction, which is making people look at themselves through different lenses and perspectives!

What is the weirdest task you’ve ever had to do for your job? The weirdest task happened at my side gig after a shoot I did for a boutique uptown in Washington Heights. A pigeon flew into the store and wouldn’t leave, so I helped staff chase it around and out with brooms before it made a mess all over the inventory! That would’ve sucked because the store had a lot of expensive thangsss!

What was your first real job? It was working the box office and as an usher at the AMC movie theater on 42nd Street-Times Square—help me Lord! I was 18, and it was my first “on the books” job. It’s actually where I met my current boyfriend and child’s daddy! It was hell because people were hella rude—but free movies?! Heck yass!

I got my first actual job was when I was 15, right after my dad passed away. I was helping at my aunt’s hair salon in Harlem: washing hair, doing rolos/pin curls and cleaning up shop! This job was the beginning for me getting to explore with my own monies!

Got any hot tips for folks wanting to do what you do? Real estate is where the real wealth is at! Learn about the market in your areas and other areas as well that you aren’t familiar with, just to compare the markets.

As far as styling and creative direction goes, it may suck, but working retail clothing jobs taught me so much about garments and fabrics. Clothing should be performative. It should make you not only look good but feel good! Don’t be shy to venture out. Take a stroll, and you may find your next place to have a photoshoot or run into a super cool thrift store—happens so much to me because ya girl is always wandering…

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The One-Oh

The One-Oh: The Pride Edit

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The One-Oh: 01. Zanele Muholi Somnyama Ngonyama 02. Janelle Monáe Dirty Computer 03. Fluide Beauty Blue Duo Set 04. Sophia Wallace Storm Pin 05. NOTO Botanics Agender Oil 06. Personals Instagram + App 07. Hearts Beat Loud 08. Hayley Kiyoko Girls Like Girls Lapel Pin 09. Queer Appalachia Electric Dirt Zine 10. Chani Nicholas Horoscopes

After geeking out over text message about the Hearts Beat Loud trailer with Dinner Party contributor and self-described “Boston-based queer witchy woman” Lacey Oliver, we decided to bring back DP’s One-Oh column in honor of Pride Month by highlighting our favorite LGBTQ artists, musicians, business owners, and other badass folks working on a variety of innovative and inspiring projects. And yes, before you say anything, we know that Pride Month is *technically* over. But when you find yourself that excited about so many queer-led enterprises, it sometimes takes an entire month—including dozens of texts, a few hours on FaceTime, and an in-person meeting in New York City—to sift through all of your ideas. Needless to say, it was tough whittling this list down to ten, but here are our picks to help you celebrate Pride Month all year long.

It’s easy to hate on Instagram marketing, but when it brings you true gems like the trailer for Hearts Beat Loud, a movie Autostraddle describes as the “quirky, queer rom-com we all deserve,” you can’t help but thank the algorithm gods for their generous and all-too-appropriate gifts. Lacey points out, “Why are lesbian movies always a goddamn tragedy? I just want a happy ending.” Bless this movie for finally giving us just that: two queer young women of color (played by two queer young women of color!!) in a heartwarming, tender coming-of-age story. You can also largely thank Instagram for giving us Personals, a revolutionary queer dating platform—soon to be an app—that combines the creativity of old-school personal ads with social media’s accessibility and wide reach, as well aFluide Beauty and NOTO Botanics, two cosmetic brands that cater to all gender expressions and explicitly seek to support the LGBTQ community, both with their publicity and financially through a portion of their profits.

In terms of visual artists, Zanele Muholi and Sophia Wallace have been around for some time now, but these two keep pushing boundaries and kicking ass in the art world. Like Lacey and I, you may be familiar with Muholi through Isibonelo/Evidence, her solo show at the Brooklyn Museum in 2015 that aimed to create visibility for black lesbian and transgender communities in her native South Africa. Muholi’s most recent project, Somnyama Ngonyama (Hail the Dark Lioness), seeks to investigate “what it means to be black, 365 days a year,” a subject that undoubtedly challenges the rest of the white dudes who unfortunately still dominate the field. Similarly, Wallace’s Cliteracy project, a deeply polarizing mixed media work which began back in 2012, has continued to push back against the patriarchy in the most explicit manner possible—by celebrating “the overdue, under-told story of the clitoris.”

On the musical front, we admit that you’ve likely already heard of multi-hyphenates Hayley Kiyoko and Janelle Monáe. After all, the latter has been all over the news lately, and Lacey jokes of the former, “I’m worried the queers will come for me if I don’t include Hayley on this list.” But we really can’t help gushing over these two ladies and their new albums (and the accompanying visuals), which are both equal parts subversive, hella sexy, and just plain queer as fuck.

Chani Nicholas’s horoscopes and Queer Appalachia’s Electric Dirt zine are two fascinating projects that take intersectionality to the next level. Lacey describes Nicholas’s work as “astrology with a social justice lens,” and Nicholas herself says: “I aim to make astrology practical, approachable, and useful. Otherwise it’s all just cosmic hot air and planets far from reach.” Likewise, Electric Dirt “seeks to celebrate queer voices from Appalachia and the South,” and their collective is comprised of folks from an incredibly diverse network, such as those identifying at the intersections of femme, dyke, nonbinary, faerie, Latinx, fag hillbilly, farm femme, and dirt witch. Lacey and I met as students on a college campus on the Cumberland Plateau, and we both know on a deeply personal level the difficulties, stereotypes, and contradictions that surround discussions about the region, particularly in light of the 2016 presidential election. Projects like the Electric Dirt zine give us both a glimmer of hope that the resistance is everywhere, even hidden deep within the forested mountains of the Appalachians.

And finally, an honorable mention goes to Ocean’s 8. Because in case you hadn’t heard, it’s pretty gay.

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Millennial Hustle

Millennial Hustle: Polly Gregory

My first job out of college was with a children’s clothing company, where I found myself doing all sorts of odd tasks, like ironing teeny, tiny onesies or sweeping up cupcake crumbs after a photo shoot with 7-year-old twins. On the side, I worked as a freelance photographer and wrote feminist and postcolonial essays (which eventually led to the creation of this blog). I lived in Brooklyn at the time, and my friends’ jobs ran the gamut—from freelance theater electrician to Ebola researcher.

Even now in my late twenties, I still find myself constantly amazed by the incredible variety—and often times, crazy number—of jobs my fellow twentysomethings have found themselves with. Sure, we millennials sometimes do some dumb shit, like take too many selfies or spend a significant portion of our income on rosé. However, at least in my experience, I’ve found those blanket statements about my so-called lazy, thoughtless generation to be, well, blanket statements by lazy, thoughtless writers who can’t show their receipts.

To put it simply: Yes, some millennials kind of suck. But a lot of us are working crazy hours, day and night, and doing some pretty amazing stuff. And so, dear reader, I bring you Millennial Hustle, a new column highlighting young folks doing cool things at their job—and their side job, and their side side job—as well as some pro tips if you’re looking to get into their line of work.

First up is Polly Gregory, a 24-year-old costumer/costume designer from Los Angeles:

Could you describe your job? Specifically, I work at a costume rental house that specializes in period (1770-1970) and western wear. On occasion, I work on the set of various TV shows. I am also a freelance costume designer.

Did you go to college, and if so, what is your degree in? Yes! I went to The George Washington University in Washington, D.C. Even though I always knew I wanted to work in film/TV and would likely end up on the West Coast, I loved D.C. too much to pass up the opportunity to study there for four years, just four blocks from the White House. My degree is a double major in American studies with a concentration in culture and politics, and in theatre with a concentration in costume design.

What is your favorite part of your job? My favorite part of my job is that I am living my dream! Sorry if that is super cheesy, but it’s also very real. My dream growing up was not to just be a costumer but to be a costume designer.

In case you don’t know the difference, a costume designer is the person who designs and decides what the character will be wearing. A costumer is a member of a very large team that works to bring the designer’s vision to life. Whether that be dressing background characters or keeping up with continuity on set, the costumer is an integral part of the costume design process.

The work at a costume rental house is somewhat like a mix between a library and Macy’s. Costumers are in charge of writing up the clothing a production wants to rent, checking it back in, and looking for damages. They also need to be very knowledgeable of the stock. In my case, that means knowing the difference between what a rancher would wear in 1850, perhaps the bear fur that was used in The Revenant—yes, we have that at my work—versus what a businessman would wear in 1940.

The simple fact that every day, I am working with costumes for film and television is the fulfillment of my lifelong dream. I love being able to tell who a character is and what they are doing with their lives through their clothes.

What is the weirdest task you’ve ever had to do for your job? It’s very hard to think of something “weird” because I do many unconventional things each and every day for my job. If I had to pick, probably the weirdest thing I’ve had to do was try on early twentieth-century girdles and undergarments to help determine the modern day size equivalents. I am frequently a model for “turn of the century” dresses because people at work seem to think, “that’s what time period your face most belongs in.” I feel like being told “you have a face for the 10′s and 20′s” is weird too.

Do you have a side gig? I am very lucky and do not need to have an “official” side gig to help pay the bills. I do, however, enjoy writing cultural critiques in my spare time as a way to keep myself creative and as a reminder to be a conscious contributor to culture.

What was your first real job? My first real job was at a school uniform store. I’ve always had a passion for fashion and clothing, so it is fitting that my first job was selling uniforms to students and desperately trying to convince them that saddle shoes are actually awesome. I would have killed to have cool shoes like that in school.

Got any hot tips for folks wanting to do what you do? I do! One would be take any and every opportunity that comes your way. Please respect your time and talent, and don’t let people rip you off. But, you never know who can open a door for you, so always make yourself available for that opportunity. I grew up in Nashville, TN and did not know a soul in costume design. One summer, I googled “costume designer Nashville” and literally emailed my resume to ten people to see if they could use an intern. Luckily, someone replied with a yes!

Use whatever resources you have—including and especially Google. Like I mentioned, I met a great costume designer and mentor from that. From a Google search, I also learned about the Television Academy summer internship, which opened so many important doors out here in Los Angeles.

My final tip? Don’t make excuses. Both my parents were lawyers growing up, and I didn’t know a soul in the entertainment industry. I went to school in D.C. where they didn’t even have a film program—just a film studies minor and a theatre program. You have to work with what you’ve got and use absolutely every resource available. If you ask and a person says no, you are no worse off and you know where not to look.

Talk to any and everybody who will give you advice. That studio accountant may have a colleague who is looking for a young designer, or even a cousin who’s in costumes. The film/TV industry is an incredibly hard field to break into, especially for people who are geographically or financially unable to take the risk to move to Los Angeles without a job waiting for them. Do as much as you can, where you can, even if it’s just helping on music videos in Nashville. Those opportunities show how passionate and driven you are, and eventually, that will pay off.

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Fashion

Spring/Summer 2018 Makes an Argument for Gen Z Yellow

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In a sea of millennial pink, how do you stand out? Some might say: in yellow. Gen Z yellow, that is. From Carolina Herrera to Christian Siriano, pops of the zesty hue have appeared this season in various styles and palettes across the board.

Leave it to NYFW newcomer Neubyrne to hop on this trend with fervor. A standout piece from Neubyrne’s debut collection was a hot yellow gown equipped with sparks of blue tulle for sleeves. A Détacher, a brand I’ve come to love for their robust, neutral tones, kept true to their muted aesthetic for the most part this season, with one exception—yellow. Of course, it was a softer tone rather than canary, but I am still calling it Gen Z yellow for the sake of this argument. Even current “it” brand (and millennial pink instigator) Mansur Gavriel is getting in on the action with a canary yellow coat that I am drooling over.

Yellow is clearly having a moment—which means the fashion set is already thinking of the next couleur de la seconde. If millennial pink is our generation’s first wife and Gen Z yellow is the hot new thing in town, what shade will be next? My money is on a Fall/Winter 2018 flirtation with mint green, perhaps a softer, creamier cousin of Pantone’s 2017 Color of the Year. But, I guess we’ll just have to wait and see.

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Fashion

Gone Guerrilla: New York Fashion Week Takes a Disruptive Turn

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New York Fashion Week has taken to the streets—and not just with killer street style. If you were lucky enough to be in lower Manhattan last Saturday night (or unlucky enough, depending on your opinion of the fashion set) then you might have seen the traffic-stopping spectacle that was #WangFest.

Interestingly enough, Mr. Wang first showed to the public in Manhattan, while reserving another show in Bushwick, Brooklyn for the industry later in the evening. Commentary on where the fashion industry is going, perhaps? The people don’t want trickle-down fashion. They want to see it, pick it, and wear it. On their own terms.

Similarly, Mansur Gavriel took to the streets in millennial pink. While the industry perched atop rose-colored bleachers, MG’s runway extended onto the sidewalk, where fans and pedestrians alike were treated to a first look of the brand’s clothing. Just like MG’s shoes and bags, we want these clothes, and we want them now. (I’ve got my eye on a canary yellow coat in particular.) Lucky for us, links to shop the collection went live during the show.

In a world where we can get everything we need and most things we want with the click of a button, is the standard fashion model extinct? And if so, what’s next? While some criticize the lack of innovation of NYFW, there’s something to be said about the digested fashion we’re given. Paris still holds on to couture, and while that is an art in and of itself, it’s not prudent to wear priceless handmade frocks while waiting for the L train. So on the flip side, Wang gave us streetwear (on the streets) while Mansur Gavriel offered see-now/wear-now. And in an age of immediacy, how can we label these guerrilla tactics in fashion as anything but innovative?

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Fashion

Irina Vitjaz Fall 2017

Benefitting from her wild success following last season’s show, Irina Vitjaz presented a new collection that certainly did not disappoint. Nor did it hold back—Vitjaz’s latest effort put two feet forward with gown after fantasy gown in a candied assortment of colors and slick lamés. The dizzying collection, pumped up on estrogen, reveled in the current trend toward pleated metallics. Arguably, there were so many standouts that one may deem it a fool’s errand to determine a focal dress.

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